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AHA vs. BHA: Which Exfoliant is Right for You?

There was a time when physical exfoliants like sugar scrubs and brushes were the face exfoliators of choice for most people. But in more recent years, chemical exfoliation—which uses enzymes and acid-based products such as AHAs and BHAs—has emerged as the champion because it's typically gentler on the skin.

Since the biggest question about chemical exfoliators is AHAs vs. BHAs and which one works best, we're breaking down everything you need to know about each of them.

AHA: Alpha Hydroxy Acid 

What are AHAs?

AHAs are powerful ingredients found naturally in foods. These include:

  • Citric acid from citrus fruits
  • Malic acid from apples
  • Tartaric acid from grapes
  • Glycolic acid from sugar cane
  • Lactic acid from tomato juice and sour milk

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the two most commonly used AHAs in chemical exfoliant skin care products.

What does AHA do for the skin?

You can find AHAs in toners, serums and face washes. They work by removing the thin top layer of dead skin cells, which in turn promotes smoother skin and a glowing complexion. They can also increase the thickness of layers deep within skin, which promotes a firming effect. AHAs benefits include the treatment of:

  • Skin texture and smoothness
  • Dark spots
  • Uneven complexion
  • Sun-damaged skin

BHA: Beta Hydroxy Acid

What are BHAs?

Much like AHAs, BHAs are a chemical exfoliating compound. BHAs include:

  • Salicylic acid (the most common BHA)
  • Beta-hydroxy butanoic acid
  • Tropic acid
  • Trethocanic acid

The main difference between AHAs vs. BHAs is that, in addition to sloughing off the top layer of skin, BHAs also contain antibacterial properties.

What does BHA do for the skin?

You'll usually find BHAs in cleansers, toners, serums, spot treatments and masks. Similar to AHAs, BHAs remove the top layer of the skin and act as a peeling agent. The benefits include:

  • Targets bumps and blemishes
  • Shrinks pores and improves skin texture
  • Reduces fine lines over time

How to Choose AHA vs. BHA

Consider the following before choosing your chemical exfoliator:

  • Since BHAs have antibacterial properties, they're well-suited for people with acne.
  • BHAs are often less irritating than AHAs, so they're better for people with sensitive skin who want the effects of a chemical exfoliator.
  • AHAs are generally stronger and are recommended for people who want to treat aging skin.
  • AHAs also increase procollagen production, which can improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin.

Pro Tip: Combining AHA and BHA

Since AHAs and BHAs are both powerful ingredients with exfoliating properties, it's usually recommended to only use one or the other to avoid irritation. That said, you can alternate using AHAs and BHAs or you can apply an AHA product all over and use a spot treatment BHA for acne. Some AHAs, such as lactic acid, are more gentle and can be combined with BHAs, but you should always consult a dermatologist before doing so.

Keep in Mind

As with any new skin care product, make sure you test some of it on a small area of your skin first to see if you have a reaction. You may feel a slight tingling initially, but the irritation shouldn't be long-lasting. If it is, try an alternative product.

Also be sure to introduce AHAs and BHAS gradually into your routine so that your skin builds up a tolerance. Start by using them once a week and increasing your frequency from there. Because both AHAs and BHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, always wear an SPF of at least 30.

Overall, AHAs and BHAs are your best bet if you're looking to improve your skin's texture. You can find a product to suit any skin type, so if you aren't using these chemical exfoliants already, now's the time to start.